All-natural, family-owned Uhmm, Feedlot.

I just ate at one of  Denver's better restaurants and against all the tiny voices telling me not to, I ordered the rib-eye.  I inquired as to where the meat came from and the name of a particular farm was thrown out that is thrown around quite frequently around town. 

This company supplies many restaurants around town and their name is always said with a sense of respect and awe (as in I should be in awe that this restaurant is carrying such fine meats). This is a family owned operation. It's all natural. 

So I looked up the name and their main address for their operations is "Feedlot Lane".  They do get cattle from smaller farm--as calves. The cows still spend most of their lives in a feedlot eating controlled diets and are humanely given 

 The feedlot provided 25,000 head of cattle with one foot of bunk space and 250 square feet of roaming space per calf. The company built a state-of-the-art veterinary center for animal healthcare, as well.

Jim Sincock, on his local foods social site COLORADO SUSTAINABILITY touches on the undefined term "natural" especially opposed to "organic".  But I pretty much knew that the beef was going to be grain-fed as some sort. I knew it would be fattier than grass-fed beef but you know I get tempted by the talk of "tender" and special breeds of cattle that are suppose to be better than prime with perfect marbling. Furthermore, it was a "family" operation--though no one seems to add that it's not a family ranch we're supporting but a family feedlot. I guess it would not be good for business if that was known. 

So I get the ribeye and it's tender (in between all the fat) and it has so much sauce and other stuff on it that I can't really even taste the meat (I wonder why?) and it's just plain mushy.  In the end it tasted just like every other steakhouse steak--like nothing special.  I tell you I keep going to these acclaimed steakhouses quite by accident and I keep trying the steak and haven't been really impressed. 

Maybe it's all in my head? Because I know it's not grass-fed? Would I be able to tell the difference? I don't know any more. But I know I'm less than impressed so far. Maybe it's the cooking style?

Anyway, upon finding that this operation is just another feedlot I have to wonder why more chefs aren't really looking for the good food? Is it all about money? Can affordable grass-fed options not be found? Are they afraid to go against lousy expectations? I don't know and I doubt if anyone in the know reads this.  However, if I could get some answers from such, that would be cool. I'm always willing to hear things out and know where I may be wrong.

Don't even get me started on the appalling state of "all-natural" chicken or even worse "just" chicken that is nothing but sponge chicken.  

There's a story in a Slow Food reader that talks about how some westerner tried to introduce factory raised chicken into Vietnam.  So the story goes that the Vietnamese were quite happy eating their slow raised chickens, many of which just ran around freely in the neighborhoods. However,  some of them were enticed to eat this new chicken from the stores. This cheaper chicken.  

They were not impressed. They did not enjoy the unnatural tenderness lauded by the chicken producers.  Seems that going directly from naturally (in the truest sense of the word) raised chicken to factory produced chicken in all its glory was too much of a jump for one generation.

 

This is in contrast to most westerners who have grown up eating debauched meats. Our palates were given a more gradual time across decades to adjust from flavor to non-tasting tenderness that we're all told should be the primary focus of our foods.  The Vietnamese referred to this new chicken as "Yank chicken".

You can get it at Whole Foods

Joel Warner, a staff writer for Westword came by and wrote up a piece for his Urbavore's Dilemma blog. Check it out here.

Sundari at Heirloom Gardens gives the call to action by asking people to inquire about the source of the greens at one's favorite Farmers Market.  In creating a strong local food economy it's important to ask "Who Grew it?"

I was recently told that everything I sell can be had at Whole Foods. If that's true, then the local food movement has progressed much further than I had thought. I must go into Whole Foods and ask them where every individual cut of meat comes from. Not just which state, or country. I should be able to look at the packaging and know which farmer I could call to get more information or more meat. I guess, my work is done.  

If it's not true, then this person is particular, baffles me. They understand the nuances of buying local veggies but dismiss the nuances buying meat that is local from small sustainable farms. (I'm willing to wager the chicken is nothing compared to the heritage pastured chicken of Good Shepherd Turkey Farm).

After you talk to your green grocer about lettuces and carrots, ask your local butcher where, exactly where, and who raised the animal you're eating.

While running I was listening to a download of O Pioneers! that I had downloaded for Linda on one of her business jaunts across Colorado. Upon her recommendation I have been listening to it all morning while trying to do other things (I'm about 3/4 of a way through it as I write). 

It is a book from an author I have been waiting to read off and on for quite awhile. I'm glad we finally downloaded to listen because it is quite a good story. There are some interesting insight into the history of the land and the hard, lonely work of farming and homesteading on the prairies of the mid-west. I highly recommend it.

While running I heard this following section and had to smile about how the "more things change, the more they stay the same" as the proverb goes.

Alexandra was sitting on one of the wooden chairs, her arms resting
on the table. Ivar was sitting on the floor at her feet. "Ivar,"
she said suddenly, beginning to trace the pattern on the oilcloth
with her forefinger, "I came to-day more because I wanted to talk
to you than because I wanted to buy a hammock."

"Yes?" The old man scraped his bare feet on the plank floor.

"We have a big bunch of hogs, Ivar. I wouldn't sell in the spring,
when everybody advised me to, and now so many people are losing
their hogs that I am frightened. What can be done?"

Ivar's little eyes began to shine. They lost their vagueness.

"You feed them swill and such stuff? Of course! And sour milk?
Oh, yes! And keep them in a stinking pen? I tell you, sister,
the hogs of this country are put upon! They become unclean, like
the hogs in the Bible. If you kept your chickens like that, what
would happen? You have a little sorghum patch, maybe? Put a fence
around it, and turn the hogs in. Build a shed to give them shade,
a thatch on poles. Let the boys haul water to them in barrels,
clean water, and plenty. Get them off the old stinking ground, and
do not let them go back there until winter. Give them only grain
and clean feed, such as you would give horses or cattle. Hogs do
not like to be filthy."

The boys outside the door had been listening. Lou nudged his
brother. "Come, the horses are done eating. Let's hitch up and
get out of here. He'll fill her full of notions. She'll be for
having the pigs sleep with us, next."

Oscar grunted and got up. Carl, who could not understand what Ivar
said, saw that the two boys were displeased. They did not mind
hard work, but they hated experiments and could never see the use
of taking pains. Even Lou, who was more elastic than his older
brother, disliked to do anything different from their neighbors.
He felt that it made them conspicuous and gave people a chance to
talk about them.

MiMa

Yes, it seems like I'm always stealing from Heirloom Gardens website, what can I say? Firstl Brians photos are so much better than anything I could do and these guys are so much more organized and with it.

Also, Sundari has some great micro-greens and early season lettuces. They're great and worth the trip so come and check them out.

Also, notice Andy, the "pickle man". I'm going to eventually carry his pickles, sauerkraut and horseradish for those who can't make it out to buy from him directly.

What I bought though is one of my favorite things and something so seldomly done right: horseradish sauce. It's horseradish and vinegar. No other thing. As in nothing else added. No sugar of gums or stabilizers. Nice spicy horseradish for when you don't have the fresh stuff laying around.

So check out Brians photos at:
www.eatwhereulive.com/HG-Photos-MiMa1/HG-MiMa-5-14-09.html

Fight to Change Denver Chicken Laws

A lot of people have asked me about the chicken rules/laws so here's an article from Westword. Thanks to Sundari of Heirloom Gardens for the link and if you're looking for inspiration take a look at her photos and videos of her own chicks.

Fowl lovers unite to streamline Denver chicken laws
By Joel Warner

Chick Photos and video

Alice Waters on 60 Minutes

An interesting look at the local food movement. I must say, she does come across as somewhat elitist, smug and beyond the reach of most working folks and families. I try very hard to make everything from scratch and to buy local and know it's not always easy and sometimes I question where my time is best spent. Should I be spending more time cooking or more quality time with the kids in downtime. Of course, I believe a balance is best but I get frustrated some days with the extra time I spend on cooking but can't bring myself to buy pre-made because the quality is almost always so much more substandard than what I could make myself. Anyway, take a look and let me know what you think.

Alice Waters on 60 Minutes

Heirloom Gardens in the News.  Check out the link here.